As we stopped in a wide area on the road near Kinlock Falls, gravel crunched beneath our tires. We heard the sound of rushing waters as we entered the Sipsey Wilderness.
The first wilderness to be designated by the federal government east of the Mississippi and the most popular National Forest in Alabama, we had finally arrived. This story, as with most road trips, is about the journey, not the destination.
We experienced everything from speeding down rural highways, to crawling through gravel roads, under a canopy green. Our northwest Alabama natural wonders road trip included four of Alabama’s twenty natural wonders, Dismal Canyon Natural Bridge Bankhead National Forest and Sipsey Wilderness.
Moulton to Sipsey River Trail
Moulton is the gateway to Bankhead National Forest for Memphis, Nashville or Chattanooga. This day trip is still possible from Jackson or Birmingham but requires a bit more travel time. Moulton is a small town with a little over 3,000 residents. You’ll find gas, warm food, cold drinks and flush toilets. Haleyville is the next stop on your route, so be sure to have everything you need.
Travel south on Al-33 to Bankhead National Forest. The forest has over 181,230 acres for recreational activities, and 90 miles of trails. This morning, we are heading to Alabama’s one wild and scenic river: the Sipsey. After four miles of turning onto Cranal Road you will reach the Sipsey River Trailhead Picnic Area.
Hiking Sipsey River Headwaters
Bring hand sanitizer and $3 for the day use fee if you plan to spend a lot of time at the Sipsey River picnic area. This is the best way to access the Sipsey Wilderness in the north. The Sipsey River runs 70 miles south to Mulberry Fork. You can choose to hike upstream and reach Falls Creek Falls, or take a more difficult route up Borden Creek. The Sipsey wilderness is a place where you can spend days exploring.
These hikes are all great for an adventure day, but we’re traveling. We took a few photos of the wooden structure, then used the restrooms and continued on our way.
Sipsey River to Kinlock Falls
The time estimate is probably a bit generous. Kinlock Road becomes gravel soon after the connection to Cranal. Why would you want warp-speed travel? Even if you’re in a passenger vehicle, this is the kind of road that will make Sunday drivers happy. The road twists and bends through a tunnel made of trees, until you reach Kinlock Falls. If you cross the bridge you have gone too far.
After you’ve reached the falls, a well-maintained path leads to a stunning lookout point over the basin. Bring a hammock or a swimsuit, perhaps a sandwich. Bring all three items and spend the day exploring Kinlock Shelter, a few miles up the road. The road calls, and we have to answer. We reluctantly leave Kinlock’s beauty and head to Natural Bridge.
Kinlock Falls Natural Bridge
The return to civilisation is slow when you leave Kinlock Falls. The road gradually becomes a paved rural road and then a highway. About a half-hour drive will take you to Natural Bridge Park. Haleyville is only a few minutes away if you want to stop for lunch. Let your GPS direct you.
Natural Bridge Park has the largest natural span east of the Rockies. It stretches 148′, and rises 60′ above valley floor. Natural Bridge Park was formed about 200 million ago when water eroded weaker sandstone. The structure that we see today was created by the stronger stone spans of the bridges. The $3.50 entry fee is well worth it. You’ll probably spend less time here than an hour hiking the short trails and snapping pictures of the arch.
Natural Bridge to Dismal Canyon
The most difficult part of the road trip is visiting Dismal Canyon because it changes so much from season to season. The cool misty Canyon is a welcome respite from the summer heat. During cold snaps in winter, huge icicles can form on canyon walls. The best time to visit the canyon is at night during spring and fall when you can view the dismalites.
What are dismalites? The larvae of an insect species (North American Orfelia Fultoni) emit a bright, blue-green glow to attract prey. They are only found in Appalachia, in places with the perfect amount of moisture, protection and darkness for the show. These glowworms are America’s cousins to the rare glowworms that can be found in Australia and New Zealand.
Dismal Canyon: How to Spot Dismalites
The spring peak is best, from late April to May. The fall peak occurs at the end of September/through October. The larvae will grow through the entire season. They’ll become larger and more vibrant towards the end. Reservations are required for the night tour which is only available on Saturday evenings. This is the logistical challenge. It’s still worth notifying your calendar to make sure you get this booked.
It is best to arrive early for a combination trip, which includes both a night tour and a day tour. They are unique and different. You can get food in Haleyville if your tour is early if you are staying for the night tour. You can leave Dismals for Hackleburg if you have a late tour. These tours run until 9:15 pm. We recommend El Fgon a Mexican hidden gem located in an old Hackleburg bank.
After leaving Dismal Canyon you will still need to drive 40 minutes on AL-24 before you reach Moulton. It’s an easy road to drive at night because it is a divided highway. You still have to get home from Moulton so it’s going to be a long drive. You saw the first National Forest of Alabama, the first wilderness East of the Mississippi River, the largest natural Bridge east of Rockies and the rare dismalite glowing worms on this road trip.